Snap shots from the mountains to the sea

We sat nestled between Chechneya, South Ossetia and Russia. The angular rock with seams of ice began above us, vibrant streams cutting through the soft greens and browns of a late spring and the shallow peat breaing small simple but intensely beutiful flowers with blinking eyes smiling up at us.

After two days without seeing another person, we clambered across mountains passes and skated down glaciers to come to the highest permantly inhabitted village in Europe at 2300 meters. In Juta we were welcomed into the most homely of farmhouses and were provided with home grown produce while we met the local mayor and a completely hammered Soso who had recent lost his son in the Georgian army.

The house of Vano in Kazbegi sits high on the Russian Military Hiughway which is now completely shut at the frontier. Above it is the snow capped volcanic peak of Mount Kazbek - a national symbol - which is hidden much of the time in the clouds. On an outcrop with it rounded spire reaching towards the sky is the divine silouet of a monestry which has returned to full use since the departure of the Soviets and their monstorous chair lift.

Following the ancient communication towers only a couple of valleys down the scenery could hardly have been more different. The valley narrows to a trecherous pass accessible only by foot. It passes through ancient stone villages which still contain a few shy mounted cattle herders. Streams pouring down from surrounding glaciers cover the wide valley floor and out from the sides of the valley suphur escapes into marshy pools bubbling up and sterelising the water before spilling over to form solid flowing structures.

The beautiful ancient capital of Mstkheta is still the heart of Georgian culture. From the fourth century church and weaping tree, which overlook the town sitting in a series of peaceful vine covered dwellings between two rivers, to the castle and fortified monastries, large groups of children fill every corner with their beutiful dark eyes pearing at us with interest and ocassionally having a go with their English.

As you head out from the court yard at Nassi's you are hit by the a constant stream of traffic crawling up the road lined with French style appartments with iron balconies on the upper story. At street level ladies sell groceries, kachapuri and other fresh produce as internet cafes, piano bars and cobblers make brisk trade. New Tbilisi is a European capital.

It was only into our third day that we experienced our second power cut. The three powerful male voices in close harmony filled the darkness as the flicker of a few candles picked out the faces of surrounding dinners. Each table bearing huge jugs of thick local wine and piled high with food - hot bread, veal entrails, a Balti like dish... Smiling young people in traditional dress and merry old men danced to diatonic cycles of fifths.

To the west Georgia opens up into a wide lush valley and Kutaisi has been at its head for centuries with a colourful bustling market place at its heart. The winding ramshakle streets stretch for miles in every direction with typical georgian houses which sits on two levels. In the house of Giorgi, we feasted on delicious local dishes and wine made from grapes grown in the garden before playing the popular local pass time of counting dominoes and discussing Georgian history and current events into the night.

At the border control we were welcomed into the country with smiles. Our first impression from a crowded mini bus on the way to Batumi of cows wandering freely across roads and along bridges as cars wove around them simultaneously avoiding potholes sent us into laughter. Now such things are normal.